The Original "Cordless" Drills

[Old tool guy]

LH thread? Great. Here are a couple more pics, I might take you up on that offer. The shank is about 3/8” dia x 7/8” long.

 

[Eric Brown]

LH thread? Great. Here are a couple more pics, I might take you up on that offer. The shank is about 3/8” dia x 7/8” long.

Thanks for the pictures. Another option for you is to cut the broken part off just above the shoulder. Then put a tight-fitting washer on it and peen the end over. If you had access to a welder you could also weld the washer on. Of course these options are basically permanent where a nut or screw would allow future removal.

 

[Old tool guy]

Cut here and peen?

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

It is a design to only take off once. I would take mig welder with some heat first, and build it up 1/2 inch, grind it down to original and then take a hack saw and cut a cross to mushroom out with your main screw.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I know folks here are reluctant to give advice, like “what I would do is …” but I’m going to ask anyway. I have this H. O. White No 2 brace (probably 1830-1850) that has a top cap problem. Here is a picture from the Sydnas Sloot site that suggests what the cap may have looked like.
I’m guessing the large screw was lost and a previous owner split the top if the shaft and mashed it over like a cotter pin, spreading the tails. When i bent the tails back together, they broke off. So what I’m thinking is to cut off the broken part of the small dia shaft, drill and tap it, and use some kind of screw to hold the cap in place. I don’t have a lathe so i will have to do with whatever the hardware store has. Not trying to get it back to factory condition, but i do need to secure the cap in place.

Is it the design that says. H.O. White No 2 Brace? Or is there some indication of marks that says H.O. White? Tell me more.

 

[Eric Brown]

Cut here and peen?

No. You need a washer to fit over it so the shoulder should be slightly taller than the washer thickness.

 

[Old tool guy]

It has this washer … that might be slightly too thick. Although if i start peening it might push it down and be just right.

 

[Old tool guy]

Mike ... tell me more. Is the inside of the cap threaded for that plug? Mine is not. And i’m not understanding how you made the plug.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Mike ... tell me more. Is the inside of the cap threaded for that plug? Mine is not. And i’m not understanding how you made the plug.

Yes, mine is threaded. Just a drop of epoxy would hold it securely. Good metal epoxy.

 

[Eric Brown]

It has this washer … that might be slightly too thick. Although if i start peening it might push it down and be just right.

Try sanding the washer down until it's flat on both sides. Then countersink on side and position it at the top. Then when you peen the material has a place to go and is more likely to secure the washer. That should work for you.

 

[Eric Brown]

Yes, mine is threaded. Just a drop of epoxy would hold it securely. Good metal epoxy.

You might conder these: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hole-covers/protective-plugs~/metal-snap-in-panel-plugs-8/

They are not flush.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I know folks here are reluctant to give advice, like “what I would do is …” but I’m going to ask anyway. I have this H. O. White No 2 brace (probably 1830-1850) that has a top cap problem. Here is a picture from the Sydnas Sloot site that suggests what the cap may have looked like.
I’m guessing the large screw was lost and a previous owner split the top if the shaft and mashed it over like a cotter pin, spreading the tails. When i bent the tails back together, they broke off. So what I’m thinking is to cut off the broken part of the small dia shaft, drill and tap it, and use some kind of screw to hold the cap in place. I don’t have a lathe so i will have to do with whatever the hardware store has. Not trying to get it back to factory condition, but i do need to secure the cap in place.

Where did you find the information on H.O. White?

 

[Old tool guy]

You might conder these: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hole-covers/protective-plugs~/metal-snap-in-panel-plugs-8/

They are not flush.

Sorry … those are **** ugly for a vintage brace. Good idea on thinning the washer

 

[Old tool guy]

Where did you find the information on H.O. White?

Here. http://www.sydnassloot.com/brace.htm
Click the “braces collection” and start reading. H O White is part of “Taylor Patent”.

 

[Old tool guy]

Yes, mine is threaded. Just a drop of epoxy would hold it securely. Good metal epoxy.

Thanks, but i’m not clear on what you used for the plug.

 

[Eric Brown]

Here. http://www.sydnassloot.com/brace.htm
Click the “braces collection” and start reading. H O White is part of “Taylor Patent”.

Sandy Moss has excellent information. Not sure what will happen to it as he died September 2024. Not sure about the tools he had for sale either. Probably will be sold on consignment by one of the larger dealers. He will be missed. R.I.P.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Thanks, but i’m not clear on what you used for the plug.

 

[Old tool guy]

This is what you said in #164 … doesn’t make sense.
1/2 inch, grind it down to original and then take a hack saw and cut a cross to mushroom out with your main screw.

 

[Eric Brown]

This is what you said in #164 … doesn’t make sense.
1/2 inch, grind it down to original and then take a hack saw and cut a cross to mushroom out with your main screw.

I believe he was saying to use a welder to rebuild the shaft to something larger in diameter and then grinding it down and making the shaft longer. After grinding it down, put the washer on and cut the shaft so it is longer. Then cut a cross into the top of the shaft to make peening easier. This of course assumes you have a welder, or access to one.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Take a welder and build up the bad end with weld to about the original size of the length. And then grind it down to the right diameter and length. And then take a hack saw and cut a cross like mine. And after you slip the knob on, take a punch and mushroom the end like mine.

 

[Old tool guy]

Ok, i thought you were explaining how to make the large slotted cap.

If i flatten and/or slightly thin the washer, i think the current length is enough.

 

[Old tool guy]

Mike ... what thread is the plug in the end of the cap? I cleaned mine out better and discovered that it is threaded. Best i can tell, it’s something like 5/8-18 but that’s some guessing. I don't have a tap bigger than 1/2” and it’s real hard to read how the teeth in my thread gauge fit. I think i will take it to the local Ace hardware and try some bolts.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Mike ... what thread is the plug in the end of the cap? I cleaned mine out better and discovered that it is threaded. Best i can tell, it’s something like 5/8-18 but that’s some guessing. I don't have a tap bigger than 1/2” and it’s real hard to read how the teeth in my thread gauge fit. I think i will take it to the local Ace hardware and try some bolts.

Yea. My thread gauge says 18 x 5/8. Now my brace is a model 1 1/2 if that makes a difference.

 

[B Halverson]

Another old gimlet, about 5" overall in length and in nice condition. One my late father originally found and saved.

 

[Eric Brown]

Heres a link to the latest update. Click on the "Eric Brown's Augermaker list". Still have a lot to put in.

Auger Bit Heaven

Introduction to a study of American auger bits

oldtoolheaven.com

Just did a large update. 180 pages so far. More to do.

Auger Bit Heaven

Introduction to a study of American auger bits

oldtoolheaven.com

 

[Eric Brown]

Working on the auger list and have a few I have not been able to identify, yet. Anybody know?

First is a counter bore, no markings. Makes a flat bottomed hole. Adjustable from 1 1/2" to 2 1/8", 1/4" pilot. The bolt holding it all together is a 5/16-16. (No not a typo, 16 threads per inch). Everything about it tells me it's old and was manufactured.

 

[Eric Brown]

Another one I didn't know. Just found it. Hargrave.

 

[RTM]

Another one I didn't know. Just found it. Hargrave.

Hargrave catalogs may be found in the ITCL

Maybe here

Hargrave Quality Tools Manufactured by The Cincinnati Tool Company : Catalog No. 91 : The Cincinnati Tool Co. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

20 p., illus., 15.4 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

 

[TheRealZeus]

Working on the auger list and have a few I have not been able to identify, yet. Anybody know?

First is a counter bore, no markings. Makes a flat bottomed hole. Adjustable from 1 1/2" to 2 1/8", 1/4" pilot. The bolt holding it all together is a 5/16-16. (No not a typo, 16 threads per inch). Everything about it tells me it's old and was manufactured.

In order to aid in your quest, here are the some of the starter patents for expansive bits. It provides no definitive resolution, but whoever patent your’s there, would have likely sited one of them. cool piece!


Sourced from reference; lostartpress

 

[Eric Brown]

In order to aid in your quest, here are the some of the starter patents for expansive bits. It provides no definitive resolution, but whoever patent your’s there, would have likely sited one of them. cool piece!


Sourced from reference; lostartpress

I had these prints done by Briony Morrow-Cribbs. Limited edition. She still has some for sale if interested.

One of the best auger references is the one done by James E. Price called "A sourcebook of United States patents for bitstock tools and the machines that made them".

His reference focused on patented bitstock tools. My reference deals with what was made.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Very kind! Thanks for the offer. I live virtually inside the internet, and would not have a wall available to display the piece. These are my walls! Well,..We all share them, I reckon. Appreciate the reference! I’ll check that out!

 

[Squirrel!]

I spent many hours with my Dad in his workshop as he was always working on something. As a woman in my mid 50’s, I’m grateful he included me in his projects.
Unfortunately, he passed away in May at 87. I am trying to organize and restore the tools as I find them. Because of this forum, I am learning so much. I’ve totally fell into the rabbit hole.
Today, I restored the Lakeside brace I learned to use as a kid.

 

[Eric Brown]

I spent many hours with my Dad in his workshop as he was always working on something. As a woman in my mid 50’s, I’m grateful he included me in his projects.
Unfortunately, he passed away in May at 87. I am trying to organize and restore the tools as I find them. Because of this forum, I am learning so much. I’ve totally fell into the rabbit hole.
Today, I restored the Lakeside brace I learned to use as a kid.

Good job. Be sure to oil it to keep it from rusting. (I use Metal Elixer from Union Manufacturing Co. for surface metals).

Union Metal Elixir ™ Rust Preventative — Union Manufacturing Company

Lasting rust protection for your treasured tools. Developed and manufactured in house using a proprietary blend of ingredients that were developed by Union’s chemist. Our Union Metal Elixir ™ penetrates metal and dries. leaving your tools protected but not oily or greasy. Specifically developed fo

www.unionmfgco.com

 

[Squirrel!]

Good job. Be sure to oil it to keep it from rusting. (I use Metal Elixer from Union Manufacturing Co. for surface metals).

Union Metal Elixir ™ Rust Preventative — Union Manufacturing Company

Lasting rust protection for your treasured tools. Developed and manufactured in house using a proprietary blend of ingredients that were developed by Union’s chemist. Our Union Metal Elixir ™ penetrates metal and dries. leaving your tools protected but not oily or greasy. Specifically developed fo

www.unionmfgco.com

Thank you. I used some 3n1 oil on this tool.

 

[TheRealZeus]

I spent many hours with my Dad in his workshop as he was always working on something. As a woman in my mid 50’s, I’m grateful he included me in his projects.
Unfortunately, he passed away in May at 87. I am trying to organize and restore the tools as I find them. Because of this forum, I am learning so much. I’ve totally fell into the rabbit hole.
Today, I restored the Lakeside brace I learned to use as a kid.

Great job! she is read to stand the test of time! Positive ya Father is up there smiling!

 

[d42jeep]

I found this No. 43 light duty North Bros Yankee push drill at an estate sale yesterday. They seem to have been discontinued in 1946 after the Stanley buyout.
-Don

 

[Eric Brown]

Began fixing a C.E. Jennings auger box with double spur bit that were rusty. Cleaned and polished the bits. They are all good. The box though, need a bunch of work. It was made out of a cheaper wood, maybe poplar. The top and bottom had shrunk about 1/8" in width and one end had come loose. The clips that are used to hold the bits were either broken or bent. They have lost all grip. Probably made of brass. The box was taken apart and reglued the end. The top and bottom were reattached using small brad nails to allow wood movement. The blocks for the clips were replaced with hickory and new clips from McMaster were installed. The insides of the box was painted red and the outside will be painted black. This wasn't a set that a collector would want so I did what was needed to make it strong for a user. In the picture below the hinges have not been installed yet. The clips hold really well. Had to squeeze the clips for the smaller sizes.

 

[Old tool guy]

The flutes on the #14 aren’t polished as well as the others.

Just kidding … awesome job. Did you have all the bits, or did you have to find replacements?

 

[Eric Brown]

The flutes on the #14 aren’t polished as well as the others.

Just kidding … awesome job. Did you have all the bits, or did you have to find replacements?

Thanks. You are right, the #14 does need a little bit more polishing. The #10 is a replacement but is from the same maker and same cutters.

 

[Eric Brown]

New update to the auger list has been done. Up to 285 pages with a few more to go. Won't have another update until next year.
Latest update includes a bunch of depth stops. Even bought some more to add but don't have them yet.

See the list here (click on Eric Brown Auger List to see): https://oldtoolheaven.com/auger-bits/openerimg/AugerMakerReference.pdf

Enjoy and have a good holiday.