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Light Fixture Layout Collections

Joe Cool

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So if my garage is almost double the length of DSPark13's (36'x50'x12' 3 bay tandem) am I correct in assuming that should be doubling the fixture and light quantities? That sure seems like a lot of lights.
 
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swanicyouth

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Dec 9, 2014
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Hello, I could use some help with lighting. House is new construction. The garage will be 2 car garage with a 15'10" bump out as below. Ceilings are flat and about 10' high.

Garage will mainly be used for some weekend detailing and auto repair, mostly the former. I'd like to use T8s, as I don't have the cash to sink into LEDs at this time.

TIA.

1ab84f924c271e4e8cd34f5e5f000f70.jpg

A rendering.

b3441902a6cbfc3cd2e84c6a222c0f24.jpg
 

roadrunner255

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Driftwood, Texas
Joe Cool - fdkss03 30x40x12 layout is similar, but your space is still larger.

Qty. 20 of 8ft 4-Lamp F32T8 like this Howard Lighting FSB80432ASEMV for $41.80 will yield 90fc @ 30" workplane in an empty room. How you use the space should determine proper location and you may find you need a couple extra to balance things after mapping the layout.

Hello,

I have been keeping an eye on these posts.

My metal building is 12' x 36' x 40', 2 bay @ 12'w x 10'h garage doors on the 40' side (4', 12' door, 8', 12' door, then 4'). 2/12 pitch (15' peak with no ceiling).

Any difference in lights as compared to fdkss03 building that has a ceiling?

Would you put lights above the garage door that would block the light when the door is up?

Any other building be a closer match?
Thanks!
 
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Platonic Solid

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roadrunner255 - See posts #40, #41, #42 = 40' x 60' x 12’ eave steel building with 2/12 pitch

Yes - I would absolutely put lights above the garage door.
 
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jedeyeben

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The Hoosier State
Thank you Platonic Solid, this thread has been extremely helpful and informative. I've been working with my electric Co-op on a lighting efficiency project for my new shop (50x100x16) and this thread has really helped me source a decent layout.
 

Stickman_17

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Rochester, NY
This thread has given me a ton of great ideas on how to go about lighting my garage, however I've been unable to find the answer to several questions. I plan on using 4' or 8', 2 bulb, T8 fluorescent fixtures around the perimeter and above the spaces between the cars in my attached, unfinished garage which is 20'x20' with 10' rafters. Only the common wall that the garage and the house share, along with the first three rafter bays, have drywall. How crucial is it that I use a fixture with a reflector? Will I lose a ton of light into the open rafters? Will the reflectors cause bright spots and uneven lighting? Any recommendations will be very much appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Platonic Solid

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Stickman 17 - Light bounces off reflective surfaces. Bare wood has very low reflectance (20 to 25%), thus at least 75% of light that hits it will not be reflected back into the room. Relying solely on direct fixture light (as opposed to reflected light from ceilings and walls) makes even light distribution very difficult. Not only will you require reflectors, but also more fixtures to achieve the same workplane illumination compared to an area that has painted dry wall. If you have the option, spending money on drywall and paint (or any other diffused reflectance wall and ceiling covering) is more cost effective than installing more fixtures.
 

sed6

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Hello, I could use some help with lighting. House is new construction. The garage will be 2 car garage with a 15'10" bump out as below. Ceilings are flat and about 10' high.

Garage will mainly be used for some weekend detailing and auto repair, mostly the former. I'd like to use T8s, as I don't have the cash to sink into LEDs at this time.

TIA.

1ab84f924c271e4e8cd34f5e5f000f70.jpg

A rendering.

b3441902a6cbfc3cd2e84c6a222c0f24.jpg


I'd use qty8 4' 2 bulb T8's lights (16 bulbs) with their reflectors and probably hung on chains to 8.5 feet. Buy ones with the electronic ballasts. They start in all temps, don't flicker and are quiet. Spaced right they will provide ample lighting.

Spaced right you won't have any hotspots. In my first pic check out the zigzag pattern of my lights. The ones running the length of the bay are about centerline of the car and the perpendicular ones spaced evenly between the first light and the wall. Pic 2 shows my garage door is pretty evenly lit; consider that 1/2 is basically lit by the end of a tube 5' away and the other 1/2 buy those parallel bulbs 9' away.

Please excuse the mess in my garage, right in the middle of a massive project.

Good luck with the new house!
 

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Platonic Solid

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I'd use qty8 4' 2 bulb T8's lights (16 bulbs) with their reflectors and probably hung on chains to 8.5 feet.
Not recommended as this creates the dark ceiling cave effect.

Buy ones with the electronic ballasts. They start in all temps, don't flicker and are quiet. Spaced right they will provide ample lighting.
All ballasts in new fixtures these days are electronic.

Spaced right you won't have any hotspots. In my first pic check out the zigzag pattern of my lights. The ones running the length of the bay are about centerline of the car and the perpendicular ones spaced evenly between the first light and the wall. Pic 2 shows my garage door is pretty evenly lit; consider that 1/2 is basically lit by the end of a tube 5' away and the other 1/2 buy those parallel bulbs 9' away.
Fixture layout is use dependent. If you plan on using your garage for cars, follow perimeter of vehicles or you'll have shadows.
Do not put fixtures on centerline of cars, put fixtures between cars and cars and walls.
 

DonPowers

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Thanks for the thread Platonic. I have a 32 x 48 and currently struggling with lighting so its nice finding all this information in one package.

To date, I have 12 can fixtures with 750 lumen LED floods for general area lighting. Over the workbench, I have two temporarily mounted 4,000 lumen 4 ft LED fixtures. I wanted to see how well they worked before I buy any more. So far I like the light and light color, 4,000k. Still don't know how well they will work in the cold.
 
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Platonic Solid

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DonPowers - You can't go wrong with LED in the cold. Recessed cans are a bigger challenge when used for general lighting since you need so many of them to equal the output of typical strip lights. If you want layout assistance, I'll need IES files for your fixtures and a garage drawing with ceiling height.
 

bczygan

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Platonic Solid,
Thank you for your work in this thread. You have given us a lot of very useful information and things to think about.

This should result in a lot of much better lighting conditions in our shop and garage spaces.

Bill
 

sed6

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Not recommended as this creates the dark ceiling cave effect.

All ballasts in new fixtures these days are electronic.

Fixture layout is use dependent. If you plan on using your garage for cars, follow perimeter of vehicles or you'll have shadows.
Do not put fixtures on centerline of cars, put fixtures between cars and cars and walls.

Eh, more than one way to skin a cat and more than one way to arrange lights. Mine clearly works well for me. Like I said, YMMV.
 

Dadofour

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Middletown, NJ
Platonnic,

Have read through this thread and appreciate your efforts. I plan to copy a combination of your layouts, but was looking for suggestions on how to address the stairs that will run up to the attic space in my Pole Barn (12'3" flat ceilings)

Thanks,

Than

Screen Shot 2015-10-03 at 8.37.57 PM.jpg

Screen Shot 2015-10-03 at 8.38.36 PM.jpg
 
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Platonic Solid

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Eh, more than one way to skin a cat and more than one way to arrange lights. Mine clearly works well for me. Like I said, YMMV.
swanicyouth's 10ft ceiling height is perfect for surface mounted F32T8 strip lights without reflectors. The suggested 8.5ft hanging reflector fixtures is a poor recommendation since lower mounting heights require more carefully placed fixtures to attain even shadow free distribution. Better to offer no advice than wrong advice.
 
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Platonic Solid

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Dadofour - Please link your drawing to a larger image.

Actually - there are quite a few layouts in this thread for 12ft ceilings. The one you copied is for 8ft ceiling. See posts: #2, 3, 4, 5, 48, 49, 55 & 56.
 
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DonPowers

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DonPowers - You can't go wrong with LED in the cold. Recessed cans are a bigger challenge when used for general lighting since you need so many of them to equal the output of typical strip lights. If you want layout assistance, I'll need IES files for your fixtures and a garage drawing with ceiling height.

Thanks for the offer Platonic. Still working on my stationary tool and bench layout. Wasn't happy with my original concept. Once I get it finalized, I'll send you a sketch.

The cans are not intended to be for work lighting, they do light the place up enough to find things in the dark or just hanging out and enjoying a few beers with friends. The LED strip lights will be used for task lighting for the work areas.

Don
 
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Platonic Solid

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Dadofour - Are your stairs completely or partially enclosed, or open?

DonPowers - If the fixtures you're using don't have IES files, we'll have to find close equivalents (which can be a challenge). Before searching for equivalents please contact the manufacturer and request the IES file(s).
 

DonPowers

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Speedy!

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Lots of good info in here. I'm close to having my lights put in and here's what I learned and the decisions I made if it helps anyone in the future. I didn't think you needed to become a lighting engineer to get this right, but man it sure felt like it by the time I was done.

I originally based my specs on the size of the shop (24W x 34D) but learned you loose about 1.5" on the interior as the specs are brick to brick as the builder calls it. I measured my actual interior and it's 23 x 32.5. I have 12' ceilings. Ceiling and half the wall will be white. Lower half of walls will be a light machine gray with gray epoxy floors.

Using the Visual Tool Platonic referenced and a working plane fc of 95 (I like a little overkill on these things) and a T8 32W 4 bulb wrap fixture (to avoid shadows and glare) I needed 12 fixtures based on a Lithonia 4 bulb T8 wrap. That's the closest I could find to the Utilitech I plan to purchase from Lowe's.

I got lucky and found bulbs on clearance at Home Depot and was able to get Phillips F32T8/TL841/XXL bulbs for $10.83 for boxes of 10. These have a CRI of 85 and 2950 lumens. If you keep your eyes peeled you may find some of these still on clearance. I bought all my store had at 7 boxes so I'd have spares.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...uorescent-Light-Bulb-10-Pack-202788/202229382

The fixture I intend to use is:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_184346-13537-184346___?Ntt=184346&UserSearch=184346&productId=1225811

I was going to use the Lithonia fixture that's similar from Home Depot, but when I opened one to look at the ballast it was commercial and I read a lot of reports on it interfering with radio stations, etc. I didn't want the headache of changing 12 ballasts after the fact. I asked the HD employee about it, he claimed he called Lithonia and they'd never heard of the issue. Hard to believe since they're sending folks replacement ballasts no charge when they complain. Something to watch for. I checked the ballasts in the Utilitech unit and they are residential.

Now my question if someone can oblige. Here's the light layout from the tool, as well as my garage layout. Two of the fixtures will be turned 90° where a recess in the ceiling will be for my lift. Should I consider turning any other fixtures 90° or is it a wash? I was thinking maybe fixture 5 and 8? There are plugs in the ceiling above the sink and tool chest at the rear for future dedicated task lighting if needed, if that matters.

Thanks in advance!


light_layout_diagram.jpg


garage_layout.jpg
 
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Speedy!

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Walls are 6" studs. Actual interior wall to wall is accurate as shown in the VD diagram at 23 x 32.5.
 

Speedy!

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I should have clarified the ceilings are 12' but the the comp closet and bathroom are capped off at 8'.
 

Speedy!

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Pull down attic ladder is horizontal (turned 90° vs what's shown on the drawing) and centered directly between fixture 5 and 6. This was required due to how the trusses were built.

The recess for the lift is to scale in the drawing. It is 3' from the right wall and 8'7" from the back wall.
 
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Platonic Solid

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41' x 22.75' x 10' flat + 14' peak scissor truss

This layout was done for GJ member **** in Wisconsin.
Interior Size: 41' x 22.75' x 10' flat ceiling section and 14' @ peak scissor truss section.

First layout image linked to full PDF detail. The rest linked to larger views.

http://svend.net/gj/****-in-wisconsin/****-in-wisconsin-layout.jpg

http://svend.net/gj/****-in-wisconsin/****-in-wisconsin-thumb.jpg

http://svend.net/gj/****-in-wisconsin/****-in-wisconsin-1-thumb.jpg

http://svend.net/gj/****-in-wisconsin/****-in-wisconsin-2-thumb.jpg
 

Dadofour

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Middletown, NJ
Platonic,

I really appreciate the effort! Now i just need the township to play ball and I can start a build thread.

Than
 

WarDamnEagle

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Mar 13, 2009
Messages
208
Location
Auburn
Platonic Solid you are a fantastic resource. Incredible how you have helped everyone with their specific needs.

I have a general question for you. I currently have a Florida 3 car garage which is about the size of an Alabama 2 car garage. I have 3 4', 4 tube fluorescent fixtures that are a bit decorative with diffusers. Totally inadequate for working in the garage. I want to go with LED tubes to save on power as I either need to run everything off 1 15 amp breaker or run a new circuit, switch, etc. I could do everything with the 8' tandems and bulbs that you have recently recommended and I think if I follow your principles of layout could get by with 9 or 10 of those.

However, what if the wife doesn't want to look at bare fluorescent bulbs? Can you recommend a two bulb 8' or 4' fixture with a decorative diffuser or do you simply loose too much lumens?

Thanks!
 
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