Richard D
Well-known member
O.K, so I'm on page 16 so far and 22 pages to go! I plan to cut my floor, pour 5000psi concrete/rebar, & embed a steel plate to mount my Maxjax. Has anyone else done that?
Maxjax Installs: Post Here
- Thread starter G-force
- Start date
Richard D
Well-known member
I will check this when I get my lift.
lolaetype
Well-known member
If I were pouring a new slab I'd have ran conduit under the slab and ran the hydraulic line from one side to the other through it. But three months ago we bought a house with an attached 4 car garage and a detached 15'X30' RV garage. I moved the MaxJax from the old house to the new and ran the hydraulic line overhead. It's attached to a bridge I made from 3/4" steel electrical conduit.
The anchor bolts are in the existing slab of 5-1/2" thick concrete reinforced with 1/2" rebar. I also set them in epoxy.
As soon as the new starter arrives I can get the E-type off of the lift and do some oil changes and motor mount replacement on other cars.
The anchor bolts are in the existing slab of 5-1/2" thick concrete reinforced with 1/2" rebar. I also set them in epoxy.
As soon as the new starter arrives I can get the E-type off of the lift and do some oil changes and motor mount replacement on other cars.
Attachments
Bill-banger
Active member
I installed my MaxJax in 2014, have had both cylinders replaced under warranty by Dannmar, they still leaked a little, but yesterday I lifted it a bit with no weight on it and left it up about a foot overnight. This morning there was a large puddle of fluid around one post. When I apply hydraulic pressure(press the lift button) fluid pours out the bottom of that cylinder. So I guess I'll have to get it rebuilt. I know some of you guys have done that, can anyone give me any advice about what to do/not do? Thanks.
shortykorte
Well-known member
And the Jag is red. Nice!!!!
Good idea on the conduit bridge. Did you consider running the near hose over head also? With the quick disconnect, guess it’s easy to detach.
In My Garage
Well-known member
I just checked the price for a MaxJax....a whopping $3770.
When I bought mine, they were going for less than $2000. What the hell happened to Dannmar's pricing?
When I bought mine, they were going for less than $2000. What the hell happened to Dannmar's pricing?
In My Garage
Well-known member
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
I know right?! For giggles I thought, why not upgrade my first gen maxjax to the newer one. Seems like they made some nice improvements and the auto locking feature would definitely be convenient compared to the manual safety bars... Then I went on their site and saw the price and I was like NO WAY. At almost $4k I would put that right towards the Triumph C7000 lift which in my opinion is vastly better than our Maxjax. Lifts higher, more weight, autolocks, and can still be moved out of the way.
I think the maxjax pricing was good before and in a way (comparing to quick jacks that cost almost $1500...) was a good deal. But at double the price, I don't think this much anymore.
Glad I paid less from a forum member on here years ago for his new max jax (I just had to drive to pick it up), but it has paid for itself many times over.
-Nigel
In My Garage
Well-known member
At that price, I'd sooner add some $$$ and buy a Mohawk Asymmetric Lift. Made in the US. All I needed was an extra foot in ceiling height and a better concrete base. Now there is a lift!
JRC3
Well-known member
At that price I hope they work right out of the box now. LOL
Dolfan
Well-known member
I saw several comments here about people with the first generation MaxJax thinking about upgrades. Take a look at this if you have not already seen it, might be a consideration for you.
www.garagejournal.com
New MaxJax Upgrade for MaxJax V1 Owners
I’m back with what I hope is another helpful post and product for MaxJax users. You may remember my original post here in GarageJournal some 10 years ago when the MaxJax was a very new product. That post went through the entire process from transporting, installation, and use. You can see that...
www.garagejournal.com
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
I saw several comments here about people with the first generation MaxJax thinking about upgrades. Take a look at this if you have not already seen it, might be a consideration for you.
New MaxJax Upgrade for MaxJax V1 Owners
I’m back with what I hope is another helpful post and product for MaxJax users. You may remember my original post here in GarageJournal some 10 years ago when the MaxJax was a very new product. That post went through the entire process from transporting, installation, and use. You can see that...
Seems like a cool thing especially that you don't have to drill new holes into the concrete but I believe one of the key features of the new MaxJax that they stated was they pushed the mounting holes back further to create a much less chance of pull out of the anchors. I'd have to find the documentation somewhere that I saved on my computer comparing the old vs new and they made it a specific talking point about how spacing the holes out had a dramatic difference on that.
Seems like other folks though can't really get a hold of anyone knowing what to get them in your thread, or the company folks aren't aware of such upgrade which is annoying. Do you have any model numbers on your new maxjax or serial numbers that could help others when talking with Bendpak folks on what they should be looking for or typing in to find the newer maxjax but with the same base plate spacing holes? Edit: Saw you posted MJ6-SW. I wonder why they can't find this in their system?
My next question is what is the cost? Is it the same price as what we are seeing now at close to $4k? I can't justify at all upgrading what I have to get the same thing but paying more. As mentioned above I'd buy a new lift. It would be cool if they did an upgrade program or something like that, but I doubt they are like Apple... so I won't hold my breath for that..lol
-Nigel
Last edited:
Richard D
Well-known member
Looks like I got mine right before the price doubled...
Dolfan
Well-known member
The model number I was given by the Bendpak folks was MJ6-SW as I posted. Now it is a special or new product so I can't speak to why it isn't in their product catalog. I do know they are experiencing extra lang lead times and maybe that combined with this being a new product is delaying this from being added into their usual product catalog.
Once again I'm not a Bendpak employee so only speculating based on what I've heard and seen.
Once again I'm not a Bendpak employee so only speculating based on what I've heard and seen.
In My Garage
Well-known member
That is news to me. When I bought my MaxJax it was under the Dannmar name. Now it is under the Bendpak name?
When did they get bought out or were they always the same company?
Dolfan
Well-known member
As far as I know, they have been under the same corporate umbrella for as long as I've been using their products.
SRL-Stage1
New member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2013
- Messages
- 2
Here are some pictures of my install from prepping the concrete to the finished product.
Cutting of the slab.
Prepping for the pour, I went 12" deep with a 6" undercut on three sides. Also pinned to the existing slab and foundation.
A couple of days after the pour.
Finished product.
Cutting of the slab.
Prepping for the pour, I went 12" deep with a 6" undercut on three sides. Also pinned to the existing slab and foundation.
A couple of days after the pour.
Finished product.
Richard D
Well-known member
Got the plate for my right side post knocked out. Sitting upside down on the welding table, this will be embedded flush with the new concrete section I put in my garage floor. 26 7/8" holes with 7/8-9 grade 8 bolts welded underneath. The orange c channels are left over pallet rack shelves. I figured I could bolt some pieces parallel to embed in the new concrete 18" below the surface for super overkill.
Richard D
Well-known member
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Here are some pictures of my install from prepping the concrete to the finished product.
Cutting of the slab.
Prepping for the pour, I went 12" deep with a 6" undercut on three sides. Also pinned to the existing slab and foundation.
A couple of days after the pour.
Finished product.
What is this?! I've never seen anything like that?
-Nigel
SRL-Stage1
New member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2013
- Messages
- 2
I wanted an easier way to grease the lift so I modified the slide blocks to pass grease through them. Now I just use a grease gun to do the job.
Top slide blocks.
Bottom slide block.
Greased up.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
That's bad ***! I wish I knew how to do that! Seems like a really good upgrade to the maxjax!
-Nigel
-Nigel
Richard D
Well-known member
Anything made in China I consider to be a "kit" that will need a bit of improvement. I would love to only buy American, but sadly, "It is, what it is".
Love this super clean install! Nice mod on the grease fittings also!Here are some pictures of my install from prepping the concrete to the finished product.
Cutting of the slab.
Prepping for the pour, I went 12" deep with a 6" undercut on three sides. Also pinned to the existing slab and foundation.
A couple of days after the pour.
Finished product.
This may be a stupid question (ok I know it is but want to confirm)
I installed my MaxJax Mx6 about 4 years ago and its been great. I wall mounted the power unit and I extended the hydraulic line to the left column by about 5' to allow for the wall-mounted power unit. It was always pretty good and the right column raised (with the shorter hose) about 1/2" lower than the left column (the one with the longer hose).
Recently (4 years later) I notice my right column is off by at least 2 inches, I've bled the system about 5 times checked for leaks, checked the hoses for damage but can't see anything. I'm suspecting I need to make sure both hoses are the same length to ensure they raise at the same speed.
Has anyone else had this issue or ran different length hoses?
The new toy I've been fixing, Mclaren wants about $15k to fix it, I've done most of it for about $2500
thanks!
I installed my MaxJax Mx6 about 4 years ago and its been great. I wall mounted the power unit and I extended the hydraulic line to the left column by about 5' to allow for the wall-mounted power unit. It was always pretty good and the right column raised (with the shorter hose) about 1/2" lower than the left column (the one with the longer hose).
Recently (4 years later) I notice my right column is off by at least 2 inches, I've bled the system about 5 times checked for leaks, checked the hoses for damage but can't see anything. I'm suspecting I need to make sure both hoses are the same length to ensure they raise at the same speed.
Has anyone else had this issue or ran different length hoses?
The new toy I've been fixing, Mclaren wants about $15k to fix it, I've done most of it for about $2500
thanks!
Attachments
Doug
Well-known member
I'm suspecting I need to make sure both hoses are the same length to ensure they raise at the same speed.
Has anyone else had this issue or ran different length hoses?
The new toy I've been fixing, Mclaren wants about $15k to fix it, I've done most of it for about $2500
thanks!
I don't know what the cure to your problem is, but I do know it's not the length of the hoses. When the cylinders are properly bled, both hoses are filled with oil. When you operate the lift all that happens is that the fluid gets pushed equally into the cylinders. I ran one hose across the ceiling and back down and it's probably 6 times the length of the original short hose on the other side. My lift is only off about 1/2" while raising.
Attachments
skamp
Well-known member
@realien you may want to install a flow control valve on the high side line. I did that and was able fine tune the high side. Lifts even now.
www.garagejournal.com
Steve
Maxjax lifting Uneven
Gabe I'm shooting you over a PM. I think I may have found the problem with my lift raising uneven. please share with the rest of us.. X2!!!:headscrat Hey G-force, don't keep us is suspense... What worked to fix your problem? Apparently, the fix is a secret! I guess he wanted to keep the...
www.garagejournal.com
Steve
thanks Steve! Do you have a link to the value you used, the link in the old thread doesn't work anymore, and do you have a pic of how it was installed, did it just go inline or did you have to use some adaptors/couplers ? That sounds like a perfect solution.
skamp
Well-known member
Weird as it comes up for me.
Dynamic JP-FC Micrometer Adjustment Knob 3/8-NPT
Dynamic JP-FC Micrometer Adjustment Knob 3/8-NPT. Usually ships in2 days. Buy it and Save at Globalindustrial.com
www.globalindustrial.com
Search for WBB537232 if the link does not work.
As far as adding adapters I think it would depend on your setup. I mounted my pump on one of the columns. Below is a picture with the flow divider and flow control valve which may help you figure out what other parts you may need.
Steve
thankyou for some reason the forum is using viglink to re-write the URL and I land on that page you provided but its all about their plastic bins
so instead of the link you provided I get this (notice the redirect)
This explains it :
en.m.wikipedia.org
anyway, I found it with the part number you provided, thanks a million this is going to be great! I get so annoyed when its not level and have panic attack when a car isn't level and quickly lower it
Do you have a pic of where you installed it at all?
so instead of the link you provided I get this (notice the redirect)
This explains it :
VigLink - Wikipedia
anyway, I found it with the part number you provided, thanks a million this is going to be great! I get so annoyed when its not level and have panic attack when a car isn't level and quickly lower it
Do you have a pic of where you installed it at all?
skamp
Well-known member
Yes picture above. I edited that post so you may have missed it.thankyou for some reason the forum is using viglink to re-write the URL and I land on that page you provided but its all about their plastic bins
so instead of the link you provided I get this (notice the redirect)
This explains it :
VigLink - Wikipedia
anyway, I found it with the part number you provided, thanks a million this is going to be great! I get so annoyed when its not level and have panic attack when a car isn't level and quickly lower it
Do you have a pic of where you installed it at all?
Steve
@skamp do you have a post or writeup of the parts you used to mount the power unit on your column? I'm going to be moving my lift to a garage I'm building and I think I will column mount it this time (its on the wall right now). You have some nice extensions and 90 degree bends on your power unit I don't have.
Richard D
Well-known member
I want to be able to find this in the future in case I need one.Dynamic JP-FC Micrometer Adjustment Knob 3/8-NPT
Dynamic JP-FC Micrometer Adjustment Knob 3/8-NPT. Usually ships in2 days. Buy it and Save at Globalindustrial.com
Search for WBB537232 if the link does not work.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Very interesting on the flow control. So I'm going to ask dumb questions because I'd rather ask and do it right than assume and then have the car fall on me.
With the flow control above you said to put it on the high side. What does that mean exactly? My pump is mounted on the wall, right next to the closest column. The outside column is the far left hose on the pump (longest hose). I'd install the flow regulator on the outside line (furthest column, like you in your picture?)
And this will enable the uneven-ness lifting that normally happens. IE: My closest column lifts higher than the furthest column. The furthest column is always about an inch lower than the other side. I've bleed numerous times, no air bubbles and have bled with weight on the lift as well.
Thanks much,
-Nigel
With the flow control above you said to put it on the high side. What does that mean exactly? My pump is mounted on the wall, right next to the closest column. The outside column is the far left hose on the pump (longest hose). I'd install the flow regulator on the outside line (furthest column, like you in your picture?)
And this will enable the uneven-ness lifting that normally happens. IE: My closest column lifts higher than the furthest column. The furthest column is always about an inch lower than the other side. I've bleed numerous times, no air bubbles and have bled with weight on the lift as well.
Thanks much,
-Nigel
skamp
Well-known member
Hi Nigel,
By high side I mean the side that is higher when lifting. What I did was installed it with it fully open. I then ran it up and down and each time reduced the flow slightly until I got it to where both arms raise at the same height. I did this with no load originally and made some slight tweaks after a load was on the lift. Also this was also done after several bleeding sessions with and without load. The other thing I typically do just due to paranoia is lift to each level, set the bar and put it back on the bar. I drilled 2 extra sets of holes so have 4 heights to total. When I di this I am never off my more than like a 1/4" on each lift. I also do this because I did have a seal fail and like that I am only going up like 12" at a time. I wish I had the ones with the locks but I don't. I got mine in 2012. Hope this help.
Thanks!
Steve
skamp
Well-known member
@realien I ordered it all from here:
DiscountHydraulicHose.com
Discount Hydraulic Hose covers all your hydraulics needs. Custom Hose Assemblies, Fittings, Adapters, & much more with quality services and support.
www.discounthydraulichose.com
I actually found my old order.
| Code | Item | Qty | Price | Grand Total |
| 700-06-06S | 700-06-06S | Set of 3/8" Hydraulic Quick Disconnects (Steel) | 2 | $17.90 | $35.80 |
| 5404N-06-2.5 | 5404N-06-2.5 | Seamless ******, 3/8" NPTF x 2.5" Long (Steel) | 1 | $6.35 | $6.35 |
| 5502-06-06 | 5502-06-06 | 90° Street Elbow, 3/8" NPTF Male x 3/8" NPTF Female (Steel) | 2 | $2.55 | $5.10 |
| 5503-06-06 | 5503-06-06 | 45° Street Elbow, 3/8" NPTF Male x 3/8" NPTF Female (Steel) | 2 | $2.66 | $5.32 |
| 5000-06-06 | 5000-06-06 | 3/8" NPTF Female x 3/8" NPTF Female (Steel) | 2 | $0.97 | $1.94 |
| TTA50 | PTFE Thread Sealing Tape (1/2" x 260" roll), TTA50 | 1 | $0.68 | $0.68 |
| 5404N-06-3 | 5404N-06-3 | Seamless ******, 3/8" NPTF x 3" Long (Steel) | 1 | $14.29 | $14.29 |
Steve